How to use Threaded Inserts
Autumn Wings replacement duck decoy heads are easy to install on many
brands of decoy bodies by using a threaded insert. You can purchase threaded inserts from Autumn Wings. Our good friend Brian Wilkey has put together
some simple instructions for you to follow.
Materials Needed:
- Drill
- ¼” drill bit
- 5/16” drill bit
- Long Pencil
- Masking Tape
- 6” ¼-20 eye bolt
- ¼” x 1” fender washer
- Threaded (cabinet) insert (1/4”-20 inside thread, 1” long)
- Hex Key to fit insert
- Shoe Goo (or other adhesive)
- Coarse tooth saw blade
This is the threaded insert. Outside is coarse thread, inside is
1/4"-20 thread to accept a standard " eye bolt. These can be found in
the cabinet hardware section of Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace, or just about
any hardware store.
Note, this is a tutorial how I install my heads on to Herter's Model
72 decoys. A similar method should work for all kinds of decoys, but you
may have to slightly modify the method to account for various size
decoys. Here, I am using a Herter's Ultimate Model 72 Mallard and a 6"
eye bolt. If using a Model 63 you will probably need to modify your
procedure. I have used the same method on Herter's Decoys that I have
burlapped. If burlapping, I complete through step 3, then burlap, paint,
and then attach the head.
Step 1: Using the coarse tooth saw, cut the keel
just in front of the keel weight. Make cut at 90 degrees to the keel and
stop when you get the body. 
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Step 2: Using the coarse tooth saw and starting from
the front of the decoy, make a cut even with the body removing the
piece of the keel in front of the weight. 
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Step 3: Using the coarse tooth saw, round the corners of the keel where you made the cut in step 1 and 2. 
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This is a picture of the finished keel, if burlapping, you would burlap now, then continue with step 4 after burlapping. 
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Step 4: With the eye bolt pushed through the decoy
where the washer is flush with the bottom of the decoy, use masking tape
to mark the drill bit to indicate the amount of the eye bolt sticking
out of the body. (this is to keep you from drilling through the top of
the head!!!) 
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Step 5: Similar to step 4, mark the 5/16" drill bit to indicate the depth of the threaded insert using masking tape. 
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Step 6: Align the head on the decoy where you want
it, using a long pencil, mark the center of the hole where you will
attach the insert. 
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Step 7: Using your pencil, you will want to more clearly indicate where your pencil mark is from Step 6. 
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Step 8: Using the marked drill bit, drill a hole in
the head, going only as deep as the masking tape you gauged in Step 4.
This will allow clearance for the eye bolt that sticks out of the top of
the decoy. Use care to insure that you keep the hole straight and
square or your head will not sit square on your decoy. 
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Step 9: Using the 5/16" drill bit, drill the hole for the insert. Again, only go as deep as the masking tape you gauged in Step 5. 
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Step 10: Place a small amount of adhesive on the
insert. It doesn't take much adhesive and most will squeeze out when you
screw in the insert. 
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Step 11: Using the hex key, screw insert into head
until the insert is flush with the base of the head. Clean off any
excess adhesive that squeezes out. 
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This is what the insert will look like once it is in the head, you are now ready to attach the decoy. 
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Step 12: Line up eye bolt and head and screw eye
bolt into head. Tighten until washer begins to indent foam on bottom of
decoy. Make sure you hold the head stationary and turn the eye bolt. DO
NOT turn the head as you will scratch the paint on the decoy. 
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This shows the eye bolt tightened and what it looks like with the front section of the keel removed. 
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