AW: An observant waterfowler will note that most modern decoys bob on the surface of the water. Autumn Wings uses hand-carved wood instead of lighter modern synthetics. The result shown in our decoys is a more realistic ride. Furthermore, we build hand-carved wooden birds to honor the tradition of classic duck hunting. Some may say handcrafted decoys adds to their enjoyment of waterfowling.
AW: This is a major feature we offer the waterfowler. AW Decoys don't bob on the surface as most duck decoys do. Almost 2/3 of a duck's weight is UNDER the water. That's why a real duck never pitches or yaws no matter how rough the waves may be. AW duck decoys have a concave bottom and are designed so more surface area is under the waterline and stabilized by both water pressure and air pressure (suction). Which boat platform would you rather be riding in rough water? A flat-bottomed boat or a deep multi-hull with more surface area beneath the water's surface?
AW: The sleeper pose conveys security and contentment. It is very common to observe at least a few resting birds in any content flock of ducks.
AW: God created a wonderful natural world with fantastic variety. To maintain the integrity of closely related species (like ducks), animals have a compelling instinct to mate (and hang out) with there own species. Ringnecks will land in mallard duck decoys sometimes. However to increase your chances to fool that ringneck into consistently landing close to your rig, species recognition may be used to the hunters advantage. Don't get carried away with this concept. Placing AW ringneck duck decoys in your favorite woody hole will not magically draw ringnecks from near and far! The cardinal rule is to set up where the birds want to be and match your rig to the local situation. Back to your woody spot. Say the duck decoy rig is mostly wood ducks of a quantity and layout matched to your local observation of real birds. The birds that work your rig will not be wary if duck decoys realistically represent the species they expect to see. When wild ducks are comfortable they may be more often deceived into presenting the waterfowler with good shooting (and viewing) opportunities. And we all want to achieve that!
AW: For one thing, it's more appealing for the waterfowler as we observe the duck decoys for hours on end! But, more importantly, this is that slight edge of realism that AW duck decoys deliver. Realism that fools birds and draws them closer for sure identification and clean kills. This manufacturing process lends itself to these variations, although this is labor-intensive work and we can handle variety without substantially increasing our costs. A mass-produced, injection-molded duck decoy is produced with rigid consistency to deliver the lowest cost.
AW: Absolutely Not. The wood construction absorbs stray shot well and our decoys have no internal cavities to rupture and fill with water. You can patch holes with wood filler if you prefer a clean look. Personally, I think shot holes add character!
AW: We use waterproof construction adhesive to mend a broken neck or put a keel back on. If an eye comes out or a bill cracks, super glue works great. Since the neck and bill are the thinnest material section they are re- enforced internally. We have yet to see one of these break clean off but anything can happen! I remember a bull can shot and dropped squarely on an injection molded duck decoy breaking the head and neck clean away from the body! Waterfowling can be nasty sometimes.
AW: Our primer coat is linseed oil and it is well bonded to the wood. It is compatible with most oil-based duck decoy paints you will find from companies such as Parkers and Herter's. For touch-ups, always spot clean the duck decoy with hot soapy water first and a scouring pad if scum is present. For a complete re-coat, a light sanding is recommended. We work hard to achieve a durable finish on the original paint job and you should expect many years of productive use from the original paint.
AW: In a word, no. They are rugged enough to stand the normal rigors of waterfowl hunting. The few failures we have had reported the past 5 years have been easily repairable.
AW: It's the best way we have seen to extend the useful life of a duck decoy rig. Nothing tears up a paint job like the grinding that occurs inside of a conventional duck decoy bag. Even if you choose not to use our bags between hunts, it's available for year-end storage. If you own premium duck decoys, they should be in a classy bag right? Since we "give-away" the bags at our cost with a minimum 6-pack purchase they do not substantially add to your initial cost. And if you use them, they will reduce maintenance.
AW: We self-right our duck decoys using the traditional method of weighting the base of the keel. You can "burp" our duck decoys to get them to ride lower in windy conditions. Expel the air under the duck decoy by turning it sideways when setting it in the water. We include further instructions on self-righting with every decoy purchase. Please email us for more information or a copy of these instructions.
AW: This is another realism issue. Most hunters realize the alarm posture for ducks is for all to be heads up and facing the wind for a quick get-away. A contended feeding or resting flock has birds facing in all directions. To give this impression I rig about 1/3 of my set on the aft hole. The resulting variety of positions and head directions conveys contentment and I believe it helps with species recognition as well since circling birds get more view angles.
AW: I am not a duck decoy elitist! I have several hundred working duck decoys of plastic, foam, and of course urethane. Inexpensive duck decoys are handy when they can be left in the field without losing sleep over the possibility of theft! Even inflatable duck decoys (like Featherlites) have their place when walk-in hunting is concerned. As I matured as a waterfowler, I found myself wanting to hunt over well-made realistic duck decoys. So most of the time I hunt over up-scale duck decoys like our Autumn Wings. The bulk of my duck decoys are ringnecks and mallards. Early in the season I add woodies and teal later replacing them with cans, buffleheads and finally goldeneyes. If coots are present I occasionally include them as confidence duck decoys. The duck decoy rig pretty much coincides with our seasonal bag. Form follows function?
AW: I take the expedient route and choose a line length of the maximum I expect to encounter and put up with longer than optimum lines during shallow water hunts. When using long lines in shallow water we occasionally will pass the anchor and line between the keel and the last wrap effectively shortening the available line. I understand that if lines were clipped to the keel how you could choose a short or long line depending on water depth.
AW: This may be an effective strategy to increase the realism of your duck decoy spread IF executed properly. Regarding species, include common local varieties in your rig. If you match the varieties encountered at your location, this enhances realism. Mostly group the species together as ducks are species specific. Be a good observer and emulate what you see in nature. If wigeon are mixing in with the cans at your location (to steal food typically), do the same with your duck decoys. Regarding size, ducks come in all sizes from the teal to the mallard or can. Even within a species there is a smaller but noticeable size range between an immature hen and a mature drake. One word of caution on this point: don't place an oversized ringneck directly adjacent to a life- size mallard. No sense to raise undue suspicion, instead leave enough open water between a mis-match like that so that a comparison is unlikely if not impossible.
AW: First, mind the wind and anticipate how birds will approach the set. We use inviting open spaces to encourage birds to land near the hunters. Be open to change the configuration later if you are not getting good close-in shots. While close-in shots are always the goal, also try to emulate the on-water patterns of local wild birds to maximize the "pulling power' of your duck decoy set-ups. Don't expect that the same layout will be optimum from one location to another or opening day to seasons end. Experiment when something works, note it in your log for future reference.
AW: Here is a list of books I have in my library some of which are still in print;
For a good mallard hunting video with an introduction to calling check out Tom Wiley's Video ... "Shoot your Judges"
We are always open to new ideas. If you care to share a good resource please email us.